"COMPLETE RIDER" YOUR #1 HORSE DESTINATION

PERFECTING THE SIDEPASS

By SUSAN DUDASIK

In previous articles, we covered teaching your horse to sidepass in hand and from the saddle. Now it's time to put that training to use. For many Trail exhibitors the sidepass obstacle is a source of frustration because their horse either kicks or steps on the pole. Unfortunately they don't realize that they, the rider, are usually the cause of this problem. If you have taught your horse to sidepass correctly from the ground and can sidepass from the saddle without a ground pole, there is no reason he can't do it with a pole under his belly. Working the sidepass is like dancing, you have to be aware of your horse's body action and be ready to counteract it if need be. If you just sit there like a lump and kick, he will most likely hit the pole.

Sidepassing over a pole is actually three different maneuvers. First, you must ride straight to the obstacle, stop, then move sideways. Sounds easy, but then again, to do it right and fluidly takes practice and teamwork. At first your horse will be confused and will try to step forward or back. It's up to you as his rider to counteract his movement and keep him going sideways. The more you practice, the better you will become at feeling your horse's slight weight shifts either forward or backward. While he should be going sideways, it's better if he tends to go forward rather than backward. As he steps forward his front legs will still cross properly with one leg crossing in front of the other. When he sets back, the leg crosses behind and comes closer to the pole. So if your horse tends to drift backwards, encourage him forward instead. For some, it can be like riding a seesaw where you have to keep shifting your body weight to counter act the horse's.

Start this type of obstacle with something simple, a short log or ground pole. Make sure you have plenty of room to make a nice straight approach to the pole. As you approach it, about six feet before the pole, start asking your horse to slow down. You want him to stop so your leg is right next to or slightly in front of the pole. Stop and stand. Take a deep breath and count to five. Ready, here comes the tricky part. Without leaning forward, backward or sideways, drop your head and see where the pole is. It should be right under or slightly behind your leg. Now, raise your head so you are either looking straight ahead or turn your head in the direction you are going, but look up, straight off your shoulder, not down at the pole. Put some weight on your seatbone opposite from the direction you want to go, squeeze with the outside leg and calmly ask your horse to step sideways. Go slow. You want him to step correctly without rushing. Keep cueing with your seat, hands and body weight and continue to look up where you are going, not down. Looking down will cause your body to shift and your horse to step forward or back.

To help show this, look at photo #1. Here the mule has come in straight and is standing in a relaxed position ready to work. In photo #2, I leaned over to see how close her feet were to the pole. That caused her to step back, putting her hoof right next to the pole. Now if I were showing, I would have to reposition her by asking her to step forward or move her front end over a step. This whole situation could have been avoided if I had simply tipped only my head and looked down my leg as I was doing in photo #1.

In photo #3, we are playing the seesaw game. She was stepping forward then back then forward and I was trying to counteract her with my hands, seat and legs, but it wasn't until I saw the photo that I realized I was looking down. Draw a line from my eyes and you'll see I'm looking right in front of her shoulder. This slight change is most likely the reason for the seesawing. I should have my head up and looking either straight ahead or in the direction I'm going. Also by looking up, it tends to take the roundness out of my back. Also, because I'm playing seesaw, I've taken too much hold of the far rein which has caused her to tip her head in the opposite direction to which we were going. This is a basic no-no but she is a green mule and that is something that will most likely correct itself as she and I gain more confidence in each other.

There are a number of patterns you can use to practice sidepassing. The basics are a straight pole or those shaped in modified versions of the letters "L", "U", and "V". As you advance, you can increase the difficulty by using poles shaped in the letters "N", "W" and "Z", just be sure there is enough space between the poles to maneuver since these require turns on the haunches and forehand. For even more of a challenge, raise the poles about 6 to 12 inches. Old flowerpots, dirt-filled 5-pound coffee cans and gallon paint cans are good for this. As your horse gains confidence, you can start sidepassing over a row of traffic cones, a bale of hay or some brush. Add variety to your sidepass obstacles but remember safety first and limit the obstacle to about 18 inches high. You don't want your horse to get poked in the belly by something you asked him to pass over. If you use a loose back cinch make sure it can't get hooked on the obstacle. Remember to vary the length and direction. By doing this and taking your time, you will soon have a horse that will willingly pass sideways with very little effort. All it takes is patience, practice and teamwork.

 

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Susan Dudasik
Shadow Rider Equine News
srider@salmoninternet.com
Member: Idaho Press Club
North American Saddle Mule Association


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Here the mule and rider are in the proper position to start the sidepass.

Photo by Susan Dudasik.

 

 

 


Because the rider leaned over to look at the pole, the mule moved its front hoof.

Photo by Susan Dudasik.

 

 

 


This might be acceptable for a green equine, but it’s not proper for the showring.

Photo by Susan Dudasik.